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So on the occasion that I finally got a dremel tool, I did something I've been wanting to do for a long time. It's not my first experience with case moding, but I've never done the plexiglass window in a 360, which opens it up for so much more.
It's still in progress, but I'll update as I hit some mile-markers.
Here's a list of changes so far:
Black paint with baby-blue accents w/ high-grade polyurethane coating (feels like it's brand new, not like paint)
Custom cut DVD drive case painted baby-blue
Fan shroud painted baby-blue
Switch added to the back to change GPU fan speed default/12v
Blue LEDs added to the interior with a switch for Bright (Always on when the console is plugged in)/Off/dim (Only on when console is on)
Yellow Led added to light the front USB ports, switched on when the door opens
Front Ring of Light LEDs changed to a blue circle and bright-white center power indicator
And I bought it with an E74 error so it's got an X-clamp fix and it's a Xeenon motherboard, so I swapped the heatsyncs to the Jasper era style.
I haven't started the HDD yet, but it's going to match, with a plexiglass window over the drive and a blue LED lighting that, as well as a blue activity LED on the front that blinks like the ones on the front of most computer cases.
At 15 minutes ago, chubzilla100 wrote: That does look pretty sweet, but what's the different fan power switches for?
With my last x-box, I did two switches to change each fan's speed. The way they're plugged into the boarad, their power varies between ~3.3v and 5 or 7v max, depending on how hot the internals are getting, and how fast the motherboard tells them to spin. The more higher the voltage, the faster they spin, giving more cooling through the fan shroud, removing heat from the heat-syncs over the CPU and GPU. The faulty design leads the GPU (graphics processing unit) to get much hotter than it should, melting the factory solder connection, and letting the board warp, moving it out of place. This will lead to the E74, three red light error.
Fixing that is as easy as opening the 360, unplugging the fans, and running the console hot so it melts the solder and floats the GPU chip again. You take off the factory x-clamps under the board first, and get a fix kit, with is basically a few bolts, buts, and spacers that keep the heatsyncs tight, and the board at the correct height from the cage it sits in.
Even a fixed 360 still gets hot, and it can go right back to the E74 in time. Increasing fan voltage makes it a little louder, but can extend the life of your console. The CPU fan is usually good enough, especially since it always has a massive heatsync on it, but the GPU heatsync is tiny and weak, and the fans favor the CPU, due again, to shitty design. I wired the switch so you can choose to do the regular speed if you're watching a movie or listening to last.fm; things that aren't using the GPU nearly as much, and 12v setting for when you're playing a game, and need a little more cooling.
I forgot to mention one detail. I also put yellow LEDs into the bottom of the DVD drive, which you can kind of notice when you see the disk in and spinning, but you can really see them lighting it up when you eject the disk drive.
At 1 minute ago, tonypar16 wrote: May I ask about how much did you spend to make this babe?
$25 for the xbox
~$10 in LEDs, from radioshack, which is almost always a rip-off for this stuff.
~$8 for the 3 switches, again from Radioshack, also a rip-off.
$2.50 for the ring of light LEDs
$4 for the RROD fix kit.
I pulled the heatsyncs off a junked board
$2-3 for plexiglass
$7 for a can of spray on polyurethane (plenty left over)
The wires ($8), soldering iron ($5), solder ($3), circuit board ($2), spray paint ($8), sandpaper ($6), and the rest of the misc. things I already had for all of the other projects I do. A lot of the stuff is left over, and now I have more leftovers, so all in all, if you don't have any of the supplies or a use for what you don't use on this, you probably wouldn't get away with all of it for under $100, if you want to do it right. There are corners you can cut, and places to buy cheaper components, but it takes longer, and to me, saving the hassle is worth a few dollars more. I do plan to sell this one when it's finished, so I want everything to be top quality when it's finished. The Dremel was the most expensive thing, which is what I never wanted to attempt this without, but I needed it for other purposes, and it's the highest corded model, about $90. I've seen the smaller models go for about $25.
One more thing I forgot to mention, speaking of the Dremel tool.. The cage mesh behind the fan is cut out smooth so it doesn't restrict the airflow. The plastic mesh part of the case is plenty, and doesn't cause unnecessary stress on the like the inner-metal one does.
I was able to post a much larger version of the picture here in my art thread so you can check that out if you want. You can't see it in the pictures but the top and bottom plastic pieces of the case are also painted the same blue as the rest.
Here's a quick video of my handy-work from yesterday when the LEDs finally came in the mail and I got a chance to put them in. The first time I tried this, I failed miserably. Then I found great tut video on the best way to go about it and now I've done it on for the console lights and this MW3 controller.