I highly advise reading this page: http://www.geocaching.com/about/
And then, if you don't find the link from the 'about' page, THIS page: http://www.geocaching.com/resources/
Much of my FAQ overlaps with those nicer, better organized pages. =)
===+======+=== FAQ ===+======+=== [POST 1/2]
Q: Sorry, I don't have a GPS, so I guess I'm out, right?
A: WRONG! While a GPS is certainly a standard tool, you can use Google Earth / Maps to find most traditional urban caches. That is how we first started out! Yes, it is more difficult. You must have a nice, detailed satellite picture in the area (it's best to enter the coordinates into GE rather than use the map's satellite view). From there you can use landmarks like 'near the northern end of the path past that smallish building' or 'along the wall by the plot of land that looks like a field.' You'll also have to make good use of the potential hint provided, the cache description and ALL the 'found' logs made by previous cachers.
This is a decent way to test the sport to see if you like it before making an investment in a GPS device.
Q: Alright, so what's it going to cost me?
A: A basic account is 100% free, and you'll have access to all the necessary tools you need to log and hide your own caches.
The GPS device will be your single biggest investment (unless you starting getting hardcore, but let's keep it simple right now). The Garmin eTrex is currently the cheapest GPS handheld that I'm aware of. Retail is usually around $90-$110 CAD, and you can probably find used ones much cheaper (the Garmin site says this model has been discontinued though... but I saw some for sale like a week ago). The Garmin eTrex Legend is the next step up (+$50 or so) and from there you start getting quite expensive. High end models can run over $500.
After you have your account and cheap end GPS, you're essentially all set; there's nothing more you really need. FYI: Geocaches ARE NOT ALLOWED to be placed in areas that you must pay to access.
I will list some other potential costs though:
Travel: If you get hooked and you have a car, be wary of gas costs.
Trackables: GeoCoins and 'Travel Bugs' usually come at a cost to OWN (more about these things later).
Supplies: Things like hiking gear, food for longer woodsy excursions, etc.
Making a cache: If you want to hide a cache, you might end up investing in materials. More on hiding later.
Account upgrade: You can pay a very low annual fee to upgrade your account. I highly recommend this, especially if you're planning on doing this often.
Q: Why should I upgrade my account?
A: It just makes using the site smoother. For the amount you pay it's completely worth it. I'll list some perks I can immediately think of (a full list can be found on the site):
- Ability to filter out finds (very useful when trying to determine what caches are closest without having to scroll endlessly).
- Ability to filter map icons (nice tool for browsing the map, and practical for slower machines because the site doesn't have to run as many queries in order to populate your map).
- Access to 'pocket queries.' These are condensed lists of caches that contain all the info (except for logs) for caches. VERY useful if you want to import large lists into a GPS device as opposed to entering them in by hand and/or as individual files. Pocket queries are also useful for planning excursions, and are used with special programs to generate sexy stat pages with nice graphs (a statwhore's nirvana).
- Access to "Member's Only' caches. This isn't really a popular type of cache... at least not around here. Or maybe I don't notice them? But who knows, there could be an extra 50 caches in your area that will magically appear when you upgrade.
Again, see the GeoCaching site for a complete list.
Q: Okay, I'm set to go find some. How should I go about doing this? What do they even look like?
A: If possible, bring a friend. Caching is about 10000% more interesting and fun when you're with even just one other person.
Caches are (usually) containers ranging in size from a 'micro' (film canister) to 'regular' (ammo can). The in betweens are usually small tupperware containers... Note all the "usually's". Some people get VERY creative. And there are 'large' caches (big tubs, often in the woods), and 'nano' size (unofficial size, generally anything smaller than a film canister. Have fun finding these!). Often the container will be taped up in some fashion if not fully and eloquently camouflaged.
If this is your first cache (or first few) try to pick easier ones. Each cache has a difficulty and terrain rating on its page, ranging from 1 to 5 (1 being easiest). Difficulty refers to the trickiness of the hide and can be based on any number of factors such as camouflage or physical placement. If it is a non-traditional cache (more on these later), the difficulty may also reflect the quality of a riddle or perhaps the complexity of a multi-staged cache. Terrain refers to how difficult it is access "ground zero" (i.e. where the GPS reads "0 metres," i.e. the location). These are determined by the cache hider so there no exact standards (though there are some widely used guidelines for terrain ratings).
Try to be discreet about it, especially if you're doing an urban cache or if you're near a public area. Cachers refer to non-cachers as "muggles" (yes, a Harry Potter reference. Yes, it's incredibly geeky. Take a moment to digest that and let's just move on shall we?) and you should do your best not to attract unwanted attention. If you ever hide a cache you'll realize that you're sort of protective about it, and would like people to respect its secrecy.
That being said, be sure to try and replace the cache exactly as you found it after you've signed its logbook and examined its contents. If you ARE "caught" in the act, the best option is to honestly explain what you're up to. (More people than you think have heard of this). You might even turn someone on to caching! If not, chances are they wont ransack it after you've left (if they're not assholes, that is). You might also want to bring along the sheet that explains geocaching, some people feel better if they see a document explaining what it is, several versions can be found at www.geocaching.com.
Q: Yeah, I was thinking, what if people do find it and trash it? Doesn't this happen a lot?
A: It is not uncommon, especially for urban caches. There's no real security system beyond a) your ability to hide/rehide and b) the honour system of fellow cachers. If you partake in caching and enjoy it, you'll find that the honour system is pretty solid. You need not worry too much about your fellow cachers. What you do need to worry about are kids, drunks, cache noobs and in some cases, animals.
Inevitably, caches will go missing, will be scattered/destroyed, or even defiled. When this happens, usually the next few people who go to look for it will either report it potentially missing or confirmed destroyed. The owner, if they're active, will disable the listing (a gray background appears on the map icon as opposed a white one) and then they will take steps to replace it, or if they so choose, archive the cache (i.e. delete it, but its history/logs will remain; you wont 'lose' finds if a cache you found gets disabled or archived. It will vanish from the map though).
