At 5/25/11 07:45 PM, eppskevin wrote: I'm a very nice guys
You're multiple people?!?!?
WAT JUS HAPPEN
Would have loved to have seen more of her rig/setup/equipment and her composition process though. That's where the good stuff is. What DAW does she use? Favorite plugins? Monitoring signal chain? Recording methods? Mic closet selections? Favorite preamps? Workflow? Average time to complete a general piece? Samples of playing style?
That would be a lot more interesting. The other stuff is just scratching the surface really.
Good deal bro. Glad there was a happy ending.
Very cool. Background music was way too loud but that was neat.
Another decent deal here for a usable amp:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SAMSON-SERVO-260-STU DIO-POWER-AMPLIFIER-/290567154258?pt=LH_
DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a726ea52
The price is right.
I will concede that ChrisV2 is right that you shouldn't fear electronics, I just have had bad experiences in the past and I know people that have been killed by it so it leaves a bad taste in my mouth. I'm pretty much extraordinarily careful about most things. The thing I worry about is that someone gets comfortable replacing some basic cap or op-amp jobbies and then figures they can move up to replacing mains wiring in their house. Scary. It does happen that way too.
At 5/22/11 04:37 PM, NickPerrin wrote:At 5/22/11 02:26 PM, Chris-V2 wrote: So, yeah, pics of the board!I'll do this for the sake of doing it. Who knows if this might be useful future insight.
It will be useful in the case you plan to get into electronics at some point. I will say that.
At 5/22/11 04:07 PM, joshhunsaker wrote: joshhunsaker's way: you're alive, better end monitoring chain result, less headache, no downtimeThe speaker still works for now and no downtime is a MUST as I have music deadlines to hit, so I guess I'd better start shopping. You recommended a specific example of some good affordable passive monitors (better/worse than what I have currently?), any recommendations for specific convection cooled pro audio amps? I've never looked into the passive monitor market.
An amp like this this one would work awesome and provide plenty of clean power. Anything under $120 including shipping would be a very good deal. As I mentioned, it is really really hard to do better than the Behringer 2031p for passives under $1k:
http://dtmblabber.blogspot.com/2010/07/b ehringer-b2031p.html
At 5/22/11 04:18 PM, Chris-V2 wrote: Not to double post but what I meant with the IC's is that if they popped that that's probably all they would do. I've never heard of Op Amps inducing an initial pop, so we're going to assume the most expensive bit of the amplifier is fine.
Any component can suffer a partial failure and malfunction. Transistors become more noisy and out-of-spec all the time without completely failing.
At 5/22/11 04:16 PM, Chris-V2 wrote: No, I mean like the two big IC's that will be the bulk of the power/current gain. If they're causing the pop then they're fucked
Well, yes - those are definitely the most expensive part.
A crowbar power supply won't stop current rushes, sad to say. Zeners are voltage sensing, crude and would actually make this situation easier as they're piss to swap in and out. But they wouldn't work. As I thought on Wiki you'd use a filtering device (Caps or Inductors) to limit the DC current spike or, oddly, what's called an NCT Thermistor.
Well, that gets beyond my knowledge of electronics. Yes cap-coupling wil eliminate large amounts of DC but it wears on the caps and they will suffer increased ESR value over time (become leaky) which makes them nearly useless in some cases. Caps are a terrible current limiting device. That's what diodes, varistors, thermistors, coils, etc. are for.
We're hoping for physical deformity - which is quite common. Caps can bulge, causing a large indent on the top. I fixed a 200 euro amp for the cost of 2 caps - and I got my college to pay for those! Still, wouldn't have costed a euro if even to do it. It's actually very straightforward sometimes. A simple visual confirmation might be enough.
It's nice when it happens to just be filter caps that are blown. Unless you see a burn mark, that is the only electrolytic/component (besides a fuse) that you can visually detect a problem with. I'm saying that just as often not what is wrong.
Power not volts, man. You can get a sting from the mains on a hot day and die from 240 or you can discharge the static on your body (Couple of thousand volts, sometimes) to a trolley and die.
Well, yes of course.
I know they say be wary of Tubes and Caps (And do!) but if he hasn't plugged it in in weeks then it's fine! You are gauranteed by Physics, Me and anyone I have ever met who studied electronics that you will not be killed. The power has dissapated. Not that he's physicaly touching the board when he takes the picture.
Have you heard the story about the guy who took a multimeter and stabbed both ends of it into his thumbs to measure his internal resistance? Well, the tiny charge sent by the multimeter to measure resistance formed a path directly through his chest, stopped his heart and he died. The point is, better safe than sorry with electronics. You have to be careful.
To be honest John, I'm quite surprised you're so against this. Maintaining equipment, to me, is part of a Sound Engineers job. I can't be afraid of my equipment, I have to have the confidence in myself to chech for cheap (And completely valid!) fixes before I lump out the extra cash. Faulty capacitors have been an issue in the market for 20 years now, it's not unreasonable to see if they're a culprit.
I've had some really close calls with electronics. Seriously close. Not worth the risk in many cases for me.
ChrisV2's way: fire, explosions, potential burns and possible death
joshhunsaker's way: you're alive, better end monitoring chain result, less headache, no downtime
Just sayin'. Choose wisely.
At 5/22/11 02:26 PM, Chris-V2 wrote: If anything would explode as a result of replacement chances are the entire amplifier is blown.
I'm not sure what you mean by "entire amp". Like, every single electronic component in the circuit fails simultaneously? Not likely.
The current limiter will be at the small signal stage or extremely expensive.
No the inrush current limiter prevent the filter caps and other parts of the amplification circuit from seeing a sudden current spike and seeing microsecond arcs. Zener-diodes are maybe expensive if you are a hobo.
And if you replace like for like and do it sensibly (Have it plugged out, I one tried soldering a connection in a guitar plugged into an amp. That wasn't clever...) then you'll be fine.
How in the world is he going to know what to replace???
But if its just a bad cap, a dodgy solder joint or something like that then I'd try and diagnose it and let a freind whose handy with a soldering iron fix it - cost of the part + a beer is less than a tenner. If there's even a part required! I don't think a little inquisition will do any harm, at any rate. But then I put down an order for a Korg Monotron yesterday knowing full well I'm going to hack it to bits...
So, yeah, pics of the board!
Unless you discharge a 200v charged capacitor on your arm. That will do some harm.
Click to listen.
that kinda thing
At 5/22/11 02:59 AM, NickPerrin wrote:At 5/21/11 06:22 PM, joshhunsaker wrote: Use the monitors until the they die with the pop, then replace them.So you recommend I keep using them regardless of the one that pops until it's completely useless? What are your thoughts on repair? I'd prefer to go this route and fix the broken speaker as the other speaker still works perfectly and has had no problems. In your experience, is this worth the time/money?
No, it's typically not. Count on a $100 minimum for an easy fix and $50 just to have it looked at by a proper tech. If it's a difficult fix it may be more like $200 (or over). That's assuming the other one doesn't start to have the same problem down the road. It's typically only worth bothering with if you monitors cost over $1k per pair TBH.
Seriously, Behringer 2031p's + good convection cooled pro audio amp = awesome replacement
At 5/21/11 04:06 PM, Chris-V2 wrote:At 5/21/11 03:42 PM, joshhunsaker wrote:Not if they have a current inrush limiter.That sounds quite expensive and sophisticated to include when you can simply turn it back to 0 before you switch it on. Not to be old fashioned, it's just something that seems like a sensible compromise to me.
They are not, every decently built amp on the planet uses one (crown, crest, yamaha, mackie, etc.)
Use the monitors until the they die with the pop, then replace them. As I mentioned, if you're not an electronics tech - you will NOT want to try to start replacing surface-mount transistors and other components willy-nilly without knowing exactly what you are doing. That will often lead to fires/explosions. If you don't believe me good luck and godspeed.
At 5/21/11 03:35 PM, NickPerrin wrote: They're Yorkville Y-SMP1s, great speakers but this scares me and I don't want to worsen the situation. I haven't changed my setup recently so this POP issue came out of nowhere. Any ideas or tips??
Not really, unless you're an electronics tech the repair is not going to be easy and likely the sound will only get worse if anything if there was a partial component failure. This is the reason I use passives (so that your entire setup doesn't die if the amp goes south).
At 5/21/11 03:41 PM, Chris-V2 wrote: Turn the volume down, flick them on, turn them up.
ANY mechanicle switch will generate a pop in an electronic circuit.
Not if they have a current inrush limiter.
LOL, audio engineering/sound design - now a net30 feasible service.
hahahahahahahaha.... right. Silly rabbit.
This would probably be easier:
http://audiojungle.net/collections/16654 1-loops
At 5/16/11 04:59 AM, sorohanro wrote: Now the guy made a commercial version and put it for sale. It used to be free, now it's not anymore.
Totally freaking sad story. Why does anyone that gets a little credo have to go erasing all their freebies?!! NOT COOL.
Ah, well - that first limiter is still pretty cool. I'll check out the other new one you linked... looks very interesting.
At 5/16/11 05:18 AM, jarrydn wrote: Hey Josh, I hate to sound like a fanboy, but this thread is excellent (much like all of your others). Do you have AIM or MSN? I think I'd like to pick your brains on a few things :).
If anyone wants to add me on skype (I've only really got skype right now, but skype is pretty hip), my skype name is josh.hunsaker
At 5/12/11 04:28 AM, mmmburgers wrote: Open FL > snort Drugs > MASSIVE TUNE!!!!!!
srs
I will admit, i lol'd
Click to listen.
Easily the best thing I've done.
You need to record in stereo for piano. Mono just will not cut it. For recording on the uber cheap - use:
Lexicon Alpha $60
(2) Prodipe TT1 mics $60
M-Audio Audio Buddy preamp $80
Very quiet computer or laptop put in a separate room
Mic stands
For spinets or uprights - open and prop the piano lid up and position the left mic about 6" distance from the strings angle sligtly inward. Position the mic about 6" up from the lowest string. Mirror that with the right mic on the other side.
I worked in a pro audio shop (consignment) and I got to play with synthesizers and kick-ass gear all day long. I could wear anything I wanted and you could take breaks whenever. It pretty much was awesome and we got first dibs on cool stuff that came in.
At 5/8/11 11:15 PM, Nav wrote:
. With this in mind, people simply have no clue how to mix and what they're aiming for. Sounding great on home systems is pretty meaningless if it sounds pathetic in the venue.
Really though there is no readily identifiable timbral difference between "home" speakers and "venue/club" speakers. The professional sound reinforcement stuff typically use drivers that can take tons of of power without melting down (larger voice-coils, magnets and higher sensitivity) and pretty much always incorporate horns of some type while 'consumer' speakers may or may not do the same (all depends). Cheap home speakers are just as inaccurate sounding as cheap club/dj speakers. There's not really a way to mix for PA speakers at all in that sense. There are plenty of club owners who have a "sound tech" (and I use that really loosely) who has absolutely no clue what they are doing and overall shitty acoustics in the environment but that's a completely unrelated issue.
At 5/6/11 07:06 PM, Knoxius wrote: If you're a noob maybe.
Wait, what? Why would using nexus mean someone is a noob? I don't understand that at all. That's like saying using any awesome sounding rompler makes someone a noob.
Click to listen.
newerest thing!
At 5/8/11 05:02 PM, myhead wrote: all ready got it. but i can hardly make rap or rock beats with it. i need somthing mainly for the two genre's
Yes, that would be where the "skill" part of the requirement for music creation would come in.
At 5/8/11 12:44 PM, Envy wrote:At 5/8/11 11:51 AM, SBB wrote:Happy mothers day!At 5/8/11 11:42 AM, Chris-V2 wrote: Sometimes you have to kill your baby.No. Listen.
You should never.
ever.
kill your own baby.
lol, so great
Click to listen.
new thing
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